Official Evolv TEST&DEMO center
Free Solo Climbing above the Mediterranean: DWS
Can you imagine climbing carefree with no rope, or at least a crashpad below you, while not risking an injury or one’s life at the same time? Pure joy of movement on the best quality, steep limestone. And what if you fall? You’ll just need to swim. That is DWS - Deep Water Soloing, the best fun climbers will find on the island of Mallorca.
Sport Climbing in Mallorca: Hidden Gems
Since 2005, Mallorca has been known among climbers mainly for its DWS venues. It needs to be said, however, that in recent years the island has seen a busy development of its sport climbing areas as well, and has increasingly become popular as a sport climbing destination. Those who visit its bolted crags are always impressed by the quality and quantity of rock. That said, there is still so much left to explore and bolted, which certainly makes Mallorca one of the best rock climbing destinations not just in the Mediterranean.
Rock Climbing in Mallorca: DWS and Sport Climbing Venues
The best of Mallorca’s, as well as Europe’s, DWS destinations are spread around the eastern coast of the island. Here, you will find steeply overhanging crags dotted with jugs and decorated by tufas, set in picturesque bays that simply ask to be explored. With every failed attempt you will get an amazing splashdown in deep blue waters of the Mediterranean.
The opposite side of the island, the west coast, is where the best Malorca’s sport climbs are to be found. Well, more precisely it is the northwest and the southwest of the island. There is a bit of everything on offer as regards the styles of climbing: overhangs and roofs with jugs and tufas, vertical walls with crimps, slabs, and cracks in the whole variety of grades. A big playground to meet every climber’s taste.
When to Climb in Mallorca?
Thanks to the mild Meditteranean climate, any season except for summer is good enough to enjoy rock climbing in Mallorca. Summer is too hot and the island gets packed with tourists, which also means the rise in prices for accommodation.
The Rockbusters crew visit the island every year in October. Our main interest here is the DWS, for which we get the best conditions in October and early November. The sun stays low in the sky at that time of the year, and dries the moisture out of the coastal caves. The temperature isn’t too hot or cold at this time, and the sea is still warm from the hot summer months. For sport climbing, autumn and spring will be the seasons with the best conditions. Some climbers have reported that they had a great time here over the Christmas holidays as well, though in winter it may get too cold and windy.
Getting to Mallorca and Around the Island
Flying to Palma de Mallorca has been very affordable thanks to many low-cost airlines operating regular flights to the capital of the island. Mallorca has a great network of good quality roads, and thus renting a car at the airport is probably the best way to get around.
Where to Stay in Mallorca
There are a number of reasonably priced accommodation facilities around the island waiting for climbers as they come out of the main season. If you are joining the Rockbusters crew you will not only get the best climbing guides for mallorca but the accommodation will be sorted out for you as well.
More Info
A good reference book on sport climbing and DWS venues in Mallorca is the Rockfax guidebook Spain: Mallorca. A trip to Mallorca can be easily combined with a rock climbing trip in mainland Spain. There are good ferry connections between the mainland and the island if you come by car, as well as regular flight connections with Palma De Mallorca.
